The 24 Hours of Le Mans Race

My most recent adventure: the 24 Hours of Le Mans car race. As someone who knows nothing at all about car racing, my reaction was a little like this “Wooo yeah let’s go watch some cars!”… It turns out that the 24H is actually a much bigger (definitely more interesting than “whooo”) deal than I thought. It is the biggest sporting event I have attended in my life with 250,000 spectators (this hurt my American ego a bit).

But what does that really mean, 24 hours of racing? I shall explain:

It’s the world’s oldest endurance car race (started in 1923) where cars race for 24 hours with three drivers (“Like a road trip?” – “No Sara, not like a road trip”). There are two races, prototype cars (between companies like Peugeot and Audi) and street cars (between cars like Porsche, Ferrari, and Aston Martin). By the end of the race, I could actually tell the difference between all those brands! The point is to see who can go the furthest, without sustaining major damage to the car to the point where they have to quit. This year only 28 cars of 56 finished the race at all. The drivers go for about two or three hours and then change. The cars stop every 45 minutes for gas and sometimes a tire change (I did feel mildly guilty about how much gas that is, it seems to contradict my “do your best to save the environment” policy). The winner this year went 3,006 miles. The track is 8.46 miles per lap. Its takes the cars about 3 ½ minutes each time around. For the best ☺

Ok so that’s the logistics part of it. So what are 250,000 European car fans like? If you combined the Greeley Stampede Rodeo, Relay for Life and a Notre Dame football game, you might have something along the same lines. You have the classy fans, the avid fans (who are listening to stats in their headphones), and the drunken fans (who are to wasted to actually know they are at a car race). Camping is permitted so you can watch all night AND NEVER SLEEP!

(The Indianapolis curve around 10pm)

Friday afternoon begins with a parade of fancy cars (I think you pay to show of your fancy car of course) and of the drivers. I was loyally at my post for an hour, AN HOUR, waiting for the parade. Then I went to the bathroom for 4 minutes and missed Patrick Dempsey, who drives in the race. How cool is that, McDreamy has the special license and everything to compete. Anyways, missed him but Guillaume got a photo.

Saturday, we just barely made the start of the race but as you can imagine, watching several cars going about 200 mph is difficult to watch all at once. Then we strolled around, drank beer (which you are allowed to bring into the park) and wine, walked more, ate delicious baguette sandwiches, watched cars, walked, etc etc until 1am. I know, who ever thought Sara would watch 11 hours worth of car racing in one day. Not me.

(A little cold on Day 2)

After not enough sleep, we were at the race again Sunday morning. The end of the race was actually one of the most exciting of all time. I mean after 24 hours of racing, you typically know who the winner will be. But because of two crashes (something that is practically unheard of at this point), the Audi and Peugeot teams were within six minutes of each other at one point. In the end the Germans pulled through and came in first. We hopped the fence, and went to watch the spraying of champagne and awarding of trophies.

A truly unique experience, something I honestly thought I wouldn’t enjoy and something that I honestly did. I can’t say I am up for 18 hours of car racing more than once a year, but once I started paying attention (beyond “I like the pink car!”), it’s actually a wonder on the effort that goes into completing the race.

ONE WEEK left. How is the adventure ending? I am both overwhelming sad and happy. I need to see my family!

Summertime!

French BBQs. They are a treat. That is all I have to say (yeah right, I actually have a whole blog’s worth of notes!).

You might be wondering how do French BBQs differ from Americano ones? Classiness. I am no way saying we are less classy but for me, BBQ means grilling, chips, sodas (beer), lawn furniture and/or picnics while I try to make sure Jazz (my puppy… who is 16… so I guess not a puppy) doesn’t steal my hot dog, watermelon running down my face and corn in my teeth.

But it’s a different story in France. You start by grilling some sausages or kebabs (“brochettes”), but then… get this!!!... you sit down at the table and eat properly with a fork and knife. Sauces are involved such as béarnaise and crème fraiche (or ketchup if Americans are involved). Corn on the cob does not exist here (HORROR!).

Occasionally (okkkk frequently) I have these really fantastic moments where I am so glad I chose to come to France. I am continually surprised at the weird stereotypes that are so wrong about the French and then the others that are so dead on (I guess that’s why they are stereotypes).

Last Sunday was one of those beautiful days. I went with Guillaume to his godson’s birthday… on a farm… an apple farm… in the French countryside. I mean, really its the most cliché thing one could imagine and voila, it appears. A great big stone farmhouse, plus barns etc, a giant BBQ, 20 family members (6 children) and one American. And if you’re thinking you’re about to hear all about the meal, YOU’RE RIGHT!

Start: aperos of kir Breton (cider and crème de cassis[black current syrup]) with the weird assortment of Frenchie snacks (nuts, chips [Pringles are la classe here], and mussels). A weird baked tuna curry freaking delight with chive cream sauce as the entrée. And I don’t like fish, but this was awesome. And then sausages and pork from the BBQ with assorted sauces (no Ketchup ☹). Followed by Charlotte cake for dessert. Charlottes are like cake houses with stuff inside, one with chocolate mousse and one with strawberry compote. Important things to note: all the meat we ate came from their farm, and the strawberries as well.

It was too good and I successfully chatted (aka I didn’t just respond to questions but contributed a few comments of my own!) and laughed about the new “American” sized fridge the family just ordered. Very nice people who invited me back to pick apples if I stay. Well alright!

This weekend I am going to the 24 Heures car race in Le Mans. Apparently it is famous for those of us who might mildly follow car racing. Its 24 hours of racing, and the longest race in the world (last year Patrick Dempsey raced in it!). Apparently we shall be walking and watching the cars for approximately 8 hours. Not something I have done before, but I like new experiences so let’s go! Updates to come. Best wishes and can’t wait to see everyone in about one month (July 12th I am back!!!).

I'm playing basketball again!

 Well shoot (get it?? haha), basketball in France. I didn’t see this coming.

I shall start from the beginning. I volunteer at the library, and the woman I work with asked if I wanted to go play basketball with her team. I was thinking the rec league, slow-pitch softball version of basketball. NO. Because France doesn’t really do sports via school, people play through their city or department (there are 98 departments… so its kind of like a state/county). Well, not to brag but I want to brag a little. I went to play and they asked me if I wanted to play next year on the 1^st level team (that’s the best level) for this city near Angers! YAY! We did drills and I felt quite rusty. But it was so fun and better than my sad attempt at running (20 minutes once a week is “running” right??). And I learned lots of new phrases via … the process of feeling like an idiot.

Shot = tir

Free throw = lancer franc (like FRONT LAUNCH)

Screen = écran

Key = la zone restrictive

On offense = on attaque (WE ATTACK)

This girl kept yelling at me to get out of the key after three seconds and I’m thinking “back off, I am getting out of the key”… but ACTUALLY, the key is a weird non rectangle shape so I wasn’t indeed ever stepping out of the key. Mehhhhh I don’t really care. Anyways, we ended with beer … I mean obviously right, and for some people a smoke break, not for me of course but good gracious these women must be severely more fit than me if they can smoke AND play basketball for two hours.

Also I should mention that before this Marianne invited me to her house to help celebrate her daughters fourth birthday. Before dinner, her daughter Thémis and I played in the garden, putting grass in a big barrel of water, then putting our hands in (all the way!) and then taking water out and putting in on the grass. And then she soaked me with water. Good to know children are the same in every country right? Furthermore she told her mom she “gave a bise (kiss) on the mouth of someone at school.” And her mom asked who? Arthur. Her mom said but we explained kisses on the mouth are just for amoureux (lovers). The daughter evidently replied “Bahhhh oui Maman, je suis amoureuse avec lui” (Duhhh Mom I am in love with him). It was adorable to say the least. For dinner we had, ready: rice, tuna, corn, avocado, tomato, and hardboiled eggs mixed together with mayonnaise. It was surprisingly delicious. And obviously cake for dessert, did I mention her boyfriend’s a pastry chef?

Now I am playing every Thursday with the team and if I get to stay next year I will keep playing! The girls and nice and I feel very awkward yelling “écran” or “tir” but I do my best to make an effort, and not push anyone too hard… just yet. 

Romania, and a little bit of Paris too!

Bucharest Bucharest Bucharest! What a treat! I decided to go on this trip to Romania mostly because I had extra funds (thank you French welfare system) and because my friend Amy has family there, but it turned out to be one of the most enjoyable trips I have been on in all my travels. Also I have heard it mentioned that people remark that my blog usually mentions delicious food, and this entry will not disappoint… Is there a job called “international food taster of delicious things”?

Upon arriving, Amy’s family immediately asked if I like Indian food… ummm yes!! France may not do Indian well but Romania failed me not. Amy’s family could not have been better hosts and also offered us other treats that I had not had in a long long time – blue corn chips with cheddar cheese, salsa and JALAPENOS. Her family works in Foreign Service (and buys some of their food at the commissary) so I got enjoy many American foods I have been missing.

The first full day we had, Amy and I explored downtown Bucharest which is a huge untapped tourist market. The Romanian currency, the Lei, is about 3:1 with the dollar and 4:1 with the euro, meaning Amy and I could afford some luxuries we otherwise can’t, like lunch WITH beer. We strolled and enjoyed the strange juxtaposition of communist style buildings right next to Parisian buildings. Earlier in the 19/20th century, Bucharest was often referred to as “little Paris”. Unfortunately during Ceausescu’s (trying pronouncing that) rule, most of the city was leveled and only a small part of the old city remains (Amy’s family also provided lots of historical info!). Amy and I had a first experience with “Wow, no one speaks English and we feel stupid not knowing anything” when trying to ride the metro. Since the city doesn’t really cater to tourists there are really no directions for the metro, let alone some in English. Makes you feel really really lame to just hold up two fingers and hope you get two tickets in return. Oh and that night we enjoyed a really delicious Thai dinner, Romania two for two as far as awesome meals…

The next day we packed up (Amy’s cousin, his wife, their two year old daughter and four month son) to head to Dracula’s Castle! Bran castle and one certain royalty inspired the character for Dracula. It was a lovely castle and great to drive about two hours through mountains and hillsides, and see another part of Romania.

Sunday was basically Romanian Labor Day and we went to Bucharest’s version of Central Park. That evening we enjoyed a FABULOUS Romanian meal (three for three) at a traditional restaurant with house brewed beer, spicy beef rolled in cabbage leaves with polenta, hot peppers, sauerkraut, and cream. It was freaking amazing. I am actually surprised I could fit it all in my stomach but it was just too good.

The last day we hung around center city more, discovered awesome Romania pastries (we just took chances but ended up with: some puffy pastry treat with pork and cabbage inside… we think), and saw the ridiculous, drove-the-country-into-bankruptcy building that is now Parliament (started by Ceausescu). It’s enormous, we took an one hour tour as saw 2% of the building. Everything inside is from Romania – marble, crystal, beautiful rugs and room after room of ridiculousness. When the people revolted in 1989 they wanted to blow up the building but then after doing some calculations they figured it would cost more to blow it up than to finish the 30% that was left. There is a fantastic balcony that Ceausescu built on which he intended to give motivating speeches, unfortunately for him the only person to ever use that balcony was Michael Jackson when he said “Hello Budapest” by accident. Opps.

 (notice Amy against the far back wall in this photo... that's how big the room is)

I headed back to Paris and immediately on to the Moulin Rouge, quite possibly the most fantastic, unbelievably magical, glittery, sparkly, wonderful hour and 45 minutes of my life. UNBELIEVABLE, from the second I walked in, I knew it was going to be worth every penny. On the train home, my friend commented “you know what would be funny? … If we had real jobs”. Now certainly the children are a REAL job but I think she was pointing out that it’s a Tuesday night and we’re riding our train back from the world’s most famous cabaret in Paris after traveling from Romania earlier that day. I never for a second stop feeling so incredibly lucky. ☺

The following days included: more Chinese dumplings, going to enormous(ly beautiful) Versailles, and lounging in front of the Eiffel Tower. Back to Angers, back to teaching, and starting national exam testing.

I hope all is well at home! Much love and best wishes all around!

Adorable things French children say...

Hello, a quick update before I head out on two weeks of vacation. My friends and I have managed to collect a list of the most adorable things said by our students, and I thought I might share the list.

When I arrive at school, there are about five 1st graders who surround me saying: Hello. I love you! How are you? I love you!

Often we hear: I’m fine, sex (trying to say: I’m fine, thanks).

They all think the word "beach" is hilarious because with their accents, they think I'm saying "bitch"... why would I teach you "We're going to the bitch tomorrow."

My favorite food is stepdad (simply not paying attention).

From my friend’s middle school student journals:

I too like senile Lady Gaga (who doesn’t?)

On Gossip Girl:

My favorite character boy it’s Chuck because he is evil and sexy. Nate it’s very very beautiful. My favorite character to girl, it’s Serena beautiful, nice, famous and trash. I also love Blair (my favorite part is Serena trash… indeed)

On trying to say “I like... “ --

I am eggs and bacon.
I am the coffee.

I asked my students to write a short postcard about Paris, Rome or Barcelona. Various responses included:

There are very many Eiffel Towers, they are big and fast (the girl simply substituted Eiffel Tower for kangaroo from an earlier example we read).

The Big Pizza very tall and long eat (I have no clue)

Love is to the football stadium because love the football (in general, I get the impression he likes football)

There is a lot of snow and it’s hot (we say the weather everyday, and yet it is both HOT and SNOWING… amazing, sounds like Colorado)


Finally, while grading workbooks the other day, I found a doodling of "Fanny + Sebastian = amour"... love it. I wonder if Sebastian knows?

In other news, I have been applying for jobs like mad. After figuring out the American system of jobs apps, the French are totally opposite. For one thing, they still use the postal system. You write a resume and cover letter, send it in the mail and I have gotten about three negative letter responses in my mail box each day for a few weeks. It's destroying my ego. For someone that doesn’t have a printer, and having to buy stamps at 75 cents a pop, this has been an expensive process. BUT… but but but, it doesn’t matter because I’ve had one interview and another for after break, and in talks for another. I am hoping to stay and teach in a private school so we shall see!

Off to Romania in a few days! Updates to come!

Benny visits, enough said!

Ahhh it’s been too long! But that means really good things have happened and I’ve been too busy to write.

I recently had another two weeks of my seven weeks of vacation (isn’t that a beautiful few words – seven weeks vacation… how will I return to two weeks in the USA). I spent a few days visiting the Côte Sauvage (literally: wild coast), which is the coast of Brittany. It was beautiful and calm and perfect, as you would imagine the western coast of France, with tiny towns and rocky cliffs, harbors and lovely bright blue waters.

After that I went on to Dijon, with my old roommate from Dijon and another friend who also studied with us there in 2008. It was a relaxing, do nothing sort of vacation, just enjoying a few afternoons of sun – finally sun! I did get a haircut though! I know, why is this exciting? I see haircuts as one of those milestones in fluency, if I can explain myself well enough to let you take scissors to my hair, success! I asked for, and got, a perfect dark purple stripe just for fun. Trusting someone with hairdye, extra success!

Then it was a few days in Paris. I love Paris more and more each time I go. The summer months of overcrowded tourists influenced my opinions before but now going in winter and spring, having time to relax and stroll around, I’ve been able to experience the Paris that we all sort of dream of. Now as I’m writing this, I realize that in fact this visit to Paris was about everything non-French, but the beauty of that is you can find it all in Paris. Immediately upon arriving, Starbucks… oh sweet delicious caramel macchiato, how I have missed you! I mean, did it cost me approximately $7.00, yes but was it absolutely worth it to sit on the second floor off rue Saint-Michel watching people stroll and enjoying a taste of home, more than yes! We also went back the next day, shame!

Next my Australian friend researched best Chinese dumpling restaurants because it is DIFFICULT to find good, anything-outside-of-French-cusine here. So we ended up a tiny resto that served all you could eat dumplings for 9.00 euros!! Plus wine for 9.00 euros!! It was actually like a little heaven. 

We also went to the Catacombs (read this National Geographic/NPR super fantastic article for more info: http://www.npr.org/2011/01/30/133308592/parisunderground), which is basically the underground tunnels holding the bones of 6 million Parisians. The bones are artistically arranged; there is a church and inscribed messages listing where all the bones came from (various cemeteries around Paris). So cool and so weird to see skulls and femurs galore. Certainly worth the trip if you go anytime soon!

Plus a beautiful moment, one of the moments where life is actually too perfect. We took our bottle of wine to Eiffel Tower, forgot our corkscrew, used a pen to push in the cork, classy, and enjoyed our bottle watching the sparkly lights of the Eiffel Tower while tour groups snapped pictures, people nagged us to buy tiny Eiffel tower key chains, and several people as romantically as possible making out in front of us. And to think, I considered not taking this job!

Lastly, a beautiful afternoon enjoying practically hot weather on the tip of the Ile-de-la-Cité, the island in the Seine where Notre Dame is. Everyone just kind of lies out and suns, which I admittedly have always wanted to do and finally got the chance. Back home to Angers, exhausted but lovely France more than ever.

And then the BEST THING EVER! Ben came to visit me!!! Wow I realize how much I miss my family after seeing him. We enjoyed delicious French tartiflette with my friends and a picnic by the Maine River with fresh cheese, sausage, basil tapenade, and baklava from the market. Plus we ate raclette (raclette is a type of cheese in which you traditionally scrape a layer from the actual wheel of cheese, these days its pre-sliced and you melt it in a little thingy you buy at the equivalent of Bed Bath and Beyond). Ben and I enjoyed the real deal at a great resto that actual heats the wheel of cheese and you continue to scrape off layers. You eat it with various meats such as sliced ham, prosciotto, salami, etc… plus potatoes and pickles. TRUST ME, its freaking fabulous. Ben and I ate what we could and tried not to slip into a food coma, while my French friend put us to shame and just kept at it. It's like cheese is in their vains! Ben even came to my classes with me, which was fantastic. They loved him and wanted to practice their self-presentations with him. My oldest kids where asking him questions but I made them do it in English so it came out more like, “you is favorite footballer?” (aka who is your favorite football player) but hey they realize -- subject, verb, noun! Success! We had a nice St. Pat’s party at my apartment, complete with friends and Trivial Pursuit (one of the questions was: Who is famous for saying this phrase “Go west, young man”? – I almost passed out from Greeley excitement!!). It was a quick week but so enjoyable.

Now teaching and teaching and more searching for jobs and hoping I can stay another year!

Recent recipes to try out if you have time: Cured pork and lentils! I found this English version of the recipe. Delicious!

http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2007/03/cured_pork_shoulder_with_green_lentils.php

Bisous bisous (kiss kiss) for all!

Birthday fondue is the BEST kind of fondue!

So birthday celelbrations complete! -- Well they were complete about 10 days ago but I’ve been slow to update.

We started Friday evening with apéritifs, of course. My friend was nice enough to make Cointreapolitans (the Cointreau liquor is made locally in Angers – the drink is Cointreau, cranberry juice, and lemon). We were only 20 minutes late to our reservations (that is in the acceptable in France, I guess). Basically, the best meal ever. EVER. Ok maybe it tied with the soufflé I earlier discussed. It was blue cheese and walnut fondue, plus a lovely Apremont wine (recommended by the owner and our server, to compliment the cheeses of our choice… nice!) And of course, chocolate fondue.

Saturday I had a lovely cappuccino and macaroon date with my friends. The woman was so nice and enjoyed (respected) my birthday crown (rainbow with sparkles) and gave me FREE macaroons – macaroons are about $2.00 a piece, it’s a pretty penny and definitely a rare treat. How nice of her! It was just very French and lovely. In the afternoon we baked a fantastic boite de bijoux (jewelry box) cake complete with candy necklaces and pink frosting. That evening we had a very child inspired party including pizza, cake, fairy bread (which is this Australian treat of white bread, plus butter and sprinkles… apparently it’s a must have a birthday parties). Plus, there were red SOLO cups! The French and Australians were extra excited because these are not sold in France – it’s a very “I thought those only existed on TV!” sort of thing. We then had American music and lots of dancing.

The next day included kebabs and preparing for the Superbowl, which started at 12:30am – Monday morning. But finally, I got to be the expert! Explaining football in French, there are easier things in the world. We had hamburgers with cheddar cheese slices (recently new to French grocery stores) and pigs in the blanket (which actually the French eat kind of a lot but fancier), plus ohhh Dr. Pepper (sold in the foreign foods section!). We made it through the halftime show, which was impressive considering there were no commercials! No commercials!!! Can you imagine the Super Bowl without commercials? We streamed them. Obviously.

It was an exhausting but fantastic weekend, my second time celebrating a birthday in France. I much enjoy it and shall try my best to keep up the tradition. Luckily my friends made it wonderful so I didn’t miss home nearly as much. Now it’s almost school vacation (SO EXCITED) so more adventures coming soon. Oh and I almost forgot, my friends and I have started an English newsletter to integrate Anglo and Franco culture in Angers. It’s a new venture with only one issue but another coming out in the next week. You can read a copy and our blog at http://pickmeupangers.wordpress.com/.

For now, a bientot!

Cream and ham with cheese and wine... usually

Well hello! It’s been awhile since my last update but today felt like the perfect day to write – its freezing so I cannot possibly go outside AND I have some good stories. Usually I go running on Mondays (everyone should feel super proud of this because I actually hate running more than anything… ever… a lot more) but it’s just too cold. I don’t know how I lived in Indiana or Colorado because now I am a big giant wimp. Angers is some sort weird mecca for no snow but it is still so cold. I don’t get it! Its about 27 degrees but I can’t imagine leaving my apartment (even though my apartment is also quite cold, I woke up this morning and could see my breath, though in all fairness that’s probably my fault as I forget to turn on the heat… but that’s because my awesome family sent me pink flannel snowmen sheets and a zebra snuggie so I am always warm in bed!).  I digress, basically no running and instead tea and a chausson aux pommes (a delicious apple pastry treat that literally means “slipper of apples”). That’s really problem here, you have the option to exercise and then you get distracted by cheese, wine, pastries or my personal… all of the above!

I continue to love/detest how random my students are. I can write something on the board and say write this “Today is Monday Janauary 31^st” and I’ll get “Tueday am January 31 Monday”… its like their brains are not engaged at all. I suspect this is a complaint of teachers everywhere. I asked a student today if he liked coffee and he responded “I am the coffee”… well heck yeah, you are! I feel that way too sometimes, kid, when I’ve had too much coffee.

I’ve been enjoying some delicious food as well. I thought I might share because isn’t that one of the best things about France:

Tartiflette: like casserole with potatoes on the bottom, cream cooked with onions and bacon poured on top. And of course don’t forget to cut half a wheel of cheese and put it on top. And bread for sopping up all that cream when you’re finished.

Pizza’ish stuff: pizza crust with peppers and tomatoes on the bottom, covered with cream baked with ham and tomato sauce poured on top, and again blue or preferred cheese cubes on top. Bread for cream afterward

Galettes: wheat crepes with a sunny-side up egg inside, ham and tomato sauce, swiss cheese, and naturally (??) some salad on top

I forget the name: strips of chicken covered with sliced tomatoes and béarnaise sauce, with herbs wrapped in foil and cooked in the oven – easy and so delish!

I hope you’re seeing the themes of  “cream cooked with ham”… and “cheese”.

My friends and I had a fantastic dinner out the other night at the restaurant, O Quebec. It’s a restaurant on steroids of Canadian stereotypes. All wood inside – the walls, chairs, tables. A little Quebec flag sits on every table with canoes as centerpieces. We enjoyed apérotifs (the drink before the wine) of kir (white wine) and maple syrup. We tried to order rosé wine with our meals but duhhhhhhh (the waitress sort of politely pointed out) you take red with your red meats. I had a bison burger and split some poutine (fries covered in gravy and cheese with Cajun chicken on top) with a friend. Plus then of course, maple syrup crème brulée for dessert. Life is not bad at all.

My birthday is Saturday and luckily I’ve managed to convince all my friends the event should be nearly as big as Christmas. We’re enjoying fondue on Friday night and then we’re making a boîte de bijoux (jewelry box) cake and ordering pizza. My Australian friend is making fairy bread, which is white bread with butter and sprinkles. Apparently it’s a must have for birthdays. And I may or may not have bought a rainbow sparkly crown. As I explain, I might be turning 23 but really that should be 2+3=5… 

A bientôt mes amis!

Morocco! African continent, check!

I will try to make this blog entry covering my 13 day adventure complete, short (enough) and yet entirely entertaining at the same time.

We arrived Dec 21^st in Marrakech flying Royal Air Maroc. I mention this because we received a lovely Moroccan meal –including curry chicken and noodles and almond cookies. The flight is three hours, lets hear it for the “royal” treatment (a whole meal! Compared to our flights where the ½ can of pop is all you get). More importantly we arrived, got totally scammed and paid too much for a taxi, got driven to the wrong hotel (4 stars! What a disappointment when we discovered it wasn’t the right one), got scammed some more and told we couldn’t be dropped off at the hostel. So we arrive, two North American girls around 11:30pm in the center city. Totally fine but a major culture shock as there are very few women out around this time, so we stick out just a little bit. I’m sure we looked adorable all the same with our little travel packs and smiles.

Marrakech was beautiful and we strolled the medina (old center city), mostly just shopping around the first day. Tons of shops and people trying to pull you in to buy this or that – silver, leather, shoes, weird make-up, spices, pillows, scarves, porcelain… you name it. And the price is all based on bartering. I wasn’t totally into it, but some of my friends were really good at it. These men know their business and I can’t even imagine how elevated they start the price knowing how much we will probably pay. Plus lots of delicious little treats – I think my stomach was overloaded as I chose to have almond juice, fig and avocado ice cream, couscous, a grilled bread (similar to the gordita bread at taco bell, strangely enough) with cheese, an almond-y cake, a second almond-y cake that my friend didn’t want before dinner. I could have thought that through better. 

We woke up early the next day and drove … eight hours into the desert with a tour group. It was through some of the most beautiful mountains, oasis, and desert. Some parts reminded me of Colorado or Utah but then some parts were so foreign. Tiny little towns built out of the earth with no paved roads. Families doing the exact same things we do, women sitting around chatting and children playing soccer (excuse me, football).  We arrived at Zagora, almost the furthest south you can go without being in the Sahara to meet our berbere guides (the native, nomadic’esque, desert dwelling people of Morocco). And then we rode CAMELS! For two hours… though after about 45 minutes, I was good. That hump is not so comfortable. We rode while the sun was setting in a beautiful travel moment I’ll never forget, but then we were in the dark for about an hour. These men led us through the pitch black (I imagined myself as some version of Jasmine finding the cave of wonders!) until we reached camp where we had dinner, sung and danced around the fire, and went to sleep in our little tents. Waking up was beyond anything I could have imagined, so beautiful in this desert of nothing, just our tents, camels, and the sun rising to spread light on the sand. Inspiring. Then back eights hours, with a stop in Aït-Ben-Haddou. This town has had more famous people in it than I can name. Films made there include: Lawrence of Arabia, Jesus of Nazreth, Babel, The Mummy, Gladiator, Kingdom of Heaven, Indiana Jones, and Prince of Persia… to name a few. Back in Marrakcech for Christmas Eve dinner at a pizza restaurant on a terrace overlooking the old city. Not bad.

Christmas Day we took the train to Casablanca – which is overwhelmingly economic and industrial. But my friend Marina desperately wanted to go there for the movie. Unfortunately we learned the move was filmed in Tanger, Morocco. Still, one famous scene (Rick’s Café - "Of all the gin joints in all the towns in all the world, she walks into mine.") was from Casablanca so we enjoyed an all right dinner there (with wine for the first time!). We haphazardly met a taxi driver who we thought was maybe trying to scam us but turns out after we haggled a bit he drove us around the whole town – to the world’s second largest mosque and the only one non-Muslims can enter (ten euros though, I wasn’t quite alright with it, normally even Muslim women cannot enter the mosque so I felt a little strange about it), the old beach side cafes that you could imagine were swank during the 60’s but now its restaurants and spas where ocean water has washed over the walls and filled the ancient pools with sea water, the Mafia district, Royal Palace etc. The best part about this cab driver, he was about 67 yrs old, was his older gentlemen perspective on life – he explained how this king (the last king, his father, was the previous dictator) is EXCELLENT and has done so much for women’s right, he’s modest and modern. He told us about when he married his wife (they were 15 and 17) and his children. Perfect little afternoon.

 Christmas Dinner

After two days in Casa, we headed to Fes. A beautiful city where the old city medina has approximately 8,000 – 10,000 streets. Needless to say, you get lost. We enjoyed our first dinner with a Couchsurfer friend. He and his friend chatted with us about Fes, the Muslim faith, schooling, their work, etc. An interesting insight into the world of 20-somethings in another country. The next day was spent shopping (lots of shopping). My friends picked up some interesting souvenirs including: 2 knives, a tanjine pot, a rug, and a teapot. I was mildly more practical but not by much. The next day we unfortunately had an incident with our hotel saying they had overbooked and requesting we move to a new hotel. I channeled my inner-Niemann and requested (demanded??) the difference in the amount we had paid for our room and amount our old hotel had paid for the new place. It wasn’t a pleasant experience but it gave me a little travel confidence all the same. The next day we went to Ifrance, a little mini-France built after WWII. You would never know you weren’t in France. At first, we had such luck and happened to hop off the bus about 10 minutes before the King drove through the town! We saw him drive through with all his soldiers, very exciting! Unfortunately the day was a total disaster as we got massively scammed by a guide to go hiking – and by guide, I mean a potentially crazy man who 30 minutes into trip told me he has no papers and lives in the mountains… and by hiking, I mean walking around a park with him picking berry branches.  And it was the Office of Tourism that called him for us! After the paper comment and branch picking, I told him I was too sick to keep hiking. He was nice enough to find me “medicine” (thyme, it did not smell like thyme) and then conveniently charge me three euros for it. Overall not the best. But that night back in Fes we almost made up for it by eating at a delicious place where I had a camel burger! It was claimed as best in the world, and it was pretty freaking good.

New Years Eve Day we headed up to Volubilis, an ancient Roman site founded around 200 AD. It was epic and beautiful. That evening we went a party hosted by the hotel. We were a bit nervous but it was fantastic! A six course meal – little Moroccan treat, pastilla (thin pastry filled with chicken and covered with cinnamon and sugar… trust me its delicious), tanjine with weird unidentifiable small bird and noodles, fruit cream dessert, Moroccan cookies, and of course mint tea. In between these courses, there was dancing and musicians singing in Arabic. We sat with a lovely Chilean and French couple who all luckily enough all spoke English. Midnight was kind of a letdown… all the sudden a few people started kissing and then they turned out the lights and we all sort of guessed that was it. But no countdown! And then about 15 minutes later, it was time to go home. New Years day we headed home to Paris and back to Angers.

 Eating coconut, you can buy it on the street!

New Year's Eve Dinner!

It was fantastic! There were certain overwhelming moments - bartering for taxi prices, finding hotels in those tiny streets, getting used to the fact that men are pretty consistently catcalling you, and seeing little children trying to sell you anything for just a little money. I was so thankful for my French, and it was great to see something so different from Western Europe. It fueled my “save your money so you can travel more!” fire. And now back to teaching, no Africa but it’ll do!